Via ferrata on the Steingrubenkogel

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    Via ferrata on the Steingrubenkogel

    The Steingrubenkogel is the fourth highest peak of the Kalkkögel in the Stubai Alps. It stands out as a distinctive cone from the mountain range and is above the Alpenklubscharte.

    We choose the access via the Schlick, a ski area that is above Fulpmes located in the Stubai Valley. From Innsbruck coming a bus or the Stubaitalbahn to Fulpmes, otherwise there is at the valley station of the cable car for cars a large parking lot. From the Innsbruck you reach the Stubaital via the Brenner motorway (Europabrücke), exit Schönberg, continue to Fulpmes. The valley station of the Schlick 2000 is signposted from Fulpmes.

    We use the cable car up to the mountain station (Fulpmes kreuzjoch 11.40 €) and then walk about 500 Hm to the Schlicker Alm (1640m) down. Here begins the increase from 800 Hm to Alpklubscharte (2451m) up. We need 2 hours, as the heat gets us going in the early morning. Here you also have the view of the other side, down to the Kemater Alm, over which you can also ascend. The ascent has it all in and is constantly steep. So you should start early because you have to climb the via ferrata not only high but also down again. If you want to use the mountain railway from the middle station to the valley after the descent, you have to keep up.

    From the gap you can see climbers climbing up the steep cliffs on the left. They look like ants on this impressive long rock face. Here you can drink something again and put on the via ferrata equipment including helmet. Our entrance to the via ferrata is on the right and we follow the signs. The trail runs over a steep gravel field and is very exposed. Right at the beginning we encounter a big old snowfield. Between the snowfield and the rock, however, an approximately 80cm wide corridor has melted freely, through which we can meander through to the end. If you are reluctant to walk on such a slippery gravel path, I recommend using sticks for help and for a better grip. These are then very helpful for the descent, which is the same way. The beginning of the via ferrata begins with the pleasant difficulty A- B, then B- C and up to the summit A- C. Caution is necessary here, because in this gap often old snow lies!

    Exact course (see also Topo):

    Over a step with difficulty A / B and A and a short walk, you come to the beginning of the ledges. Here you usually just go horizontally, so only difficulty A. On the west side you reach the small Nadelscharte. This one climbs down in B / C and up again with A / B on the opposite wall. Continue climbing on ribbons (A) to key point (C), which is located in a narrow crevice. Here we wait each time until the front man has risen through, as they started small stones that lie loosely on the rock. On this day we are with a couple, however, the only ones who make this via ferrata, so we do not have to wait long here. Afterwards, you circle around another tower and then reach the summit via a short step (A / B and A) and another steep walk. Here we are doubly proud, as one can reach the summit simply over this via ferrata and we the summit of the Steingrube Kogels for us to enjoy alone. Although we caught a very hot day, only the ascent was to go in blazing sun. Because the via ferrata meanders around the towers, you mostly climb in the pleasant shade.

    Although there is only one place in pure C, otherwise the intervening, very exposed walking sections are not dangerous without wire safety. With old snowfields you should be particularly careful here! I myself have never climbed in the Dolomites, but that's how you imagine them!

    For the entire via ferrata with only 130 Hm to the summit, it takes about 45 minutes and you should plan this again for the descent of the via ferrata. The descent to Schlicker Alm then takes another 1.5 hours. From here you can hike to the middle station and then take the last train down or comfortably with the hut taxi to save the arduous descent.

    Recommended time

    June-October, depending on how many old snowfields there are

    Child friendly

    No, because boarding has already been suspended and the fixed rope route has to be taken back and forth.



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