Alpine-inspired climbing in the Alpstein in Eastern Switzerland - beautiful enjoyment climbing, but only in absolutely dry weather, because the descent via steep grass is not very edifying.
Boarding and bivouac
We start late at night in the light of the headlamps from the parking lot in Wildhaus. From the beautiful Flürentobel we see nothing, even from the eternal long climb towards Mutschensattel we only take the black mountains left and right and the starry sky true.
A bit before the Alp Grueb we bivouac about 22:00 clock, by blocks a bit sheltered. In the morning, after coffee and muesli bar, we take, a bit tired, the final climb to the entrance to the pink ridge. Under the overhang, we deposit sleeping bags, poles, stoves and other stuff and get in at 9:40 clock in the nearly two hundred meters high rose ridge.
The rose edge
The (old) Topo guides us through 5 pitches in just under three hours through 3-terrain, usually hedged with bolts. Some loops, slips and friends but calm the nerves, especially since I take the route with mountain boots more clamping than kicking. Gripping options are there in the wonderful Schratten cold enough, usually seitgriffig and feet either wide clamping cracks or slight gradations. At the top, it is slightly more demanding and above all duly exposed!
A short summit rest on the northern summit of the Gätterifirst, an entry in the book, then abseiling in the grassy saddle. From there, the steep grassy slope goes up to P2095, as described in the topo. From here it is duly exposed and unfortunate: usually climbing backwards, sliding on the seat, it goes unsecured on turf and sometimes brittle rock down. Some little confidence-inspiring iron pins rammed into the grassy rock are supposed to soothe the nerves. At the last steep section we decide to rappel on exactly such an iron pin and let the rope hang for the following rope team. They accept the offer thankfully (Marco and Stefan!).
The way back takes us on a narrow, blue-and-white-marked grass ridge in the direction of Mutschen, and so we take this beautiful hill with us and soon afterwards we return to the path. We do not want to end, we traipse back the 1000 vertical meters, only to be received again in the Flürentobel of gloom. Tired, broken but happy, we reach the car and make our way over the Chips & Coke Depot.
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