Fast one-day tour on the prototype of a mountain, the Matterhorn (4478m). Or also: Staustehen in the gym.
Since the mates have been touring the Valais for three days and I need a break from work, I decide to go to Zermatt for a day. The question of the goal is quickly resolved, because we are all quite fit at the moment and the two have already acclimated super. So I arrive at midnight with the beautiful Matterhorn-Gotthard-Bahn Zermatt (1605m) and walk through the busy main street. At this place you will not be looked at crookedly at this time, if you walk through the night with junk. At Murmeltierbrunnen, an exhibition commemorates the 150th anniversary of the Matterhorn ascent, fitting for the personal "first ascent".
I follow the beautiful hiking trails through the typical Valais hamlet To the lake (1766m) and reach the cable car distribution cross Furi (1867m)reminding of a landed space station. The stars sparkle in the cloudless sky, the weather forecast for tomorrow is also excellent, and I follow the signs for Schwarzsee. In a pleasant slope goes through beautiful larch forest to the tree line. The glaciers at cathedral and the other 4000s are brightly lit by the moon, I almost do not need the headlamp. Two herds of sheep are (almost) not bothered by me and make the trail only reluctantly free. Of course, not without leaving behind ... Soon, the longed-for peak comes in sight, as he rises steeply above you. And I should still high today?
Soon I will reach the Schwarzsee (2552m), where I fill up the water supplies again, because there are only expensive water at the hut above. The buddies bivouac exemplary BEFORE the Camping-prohibition sign just behind Hirli (2775m) under the rock wall. From Zermatt, I needed 2.5 hours without any big breaks, so I can lie down for another hour. The three of us warm each other on two sleeping pads ...
The alarm goes off at 4 o'clock, as is also on the hut lot walking time. But we still 1.5 hours to Hörnli Hut (3260m) need, we run after the pile of people far below and are almost alone, which is very pleasant on the ridge.
Behind the hut, go directly, now it is 1200 Hm scramble and climb, that will not be boring! The Wegfindung is quite difficult from time to time, as the topo helps immensely, which I have previously printed. The Kraxelei happens mostly in the first and second degree of difficulty, a slip-up but should not be, because the terrain is very steep throughout. Soon after the start, the sun will rise, it will be warm and infinitely enjoyable to climb here. The rope we get out only at the Moseleyplatte and secure ourselves on the terrace of Solvay hut (4003m) high. A smelly bunch of human remains welcomes you here. Why don't people do the business down the north wall? It would only be a few hundred years before people would have a problem with the cheek when the glacier was gone 🙂 The fact is, this crate is only intended for emergencies, but is obviously used quite regularly and as planned by some people and is accordingly cut off. No thanks!
After a short break, in which the lack of sleep is noticeable, go on to the next climbing site. Since my buddies are well acclimatised by the Weisshorn, I can hand over my crampons, jacket and drinks and from now on I am backpack-less. Funny feeling, but better for your health at this altitude. Climbing on the shoulder, and here expects a normal Matterhorn insanity. On the fixed ropes hang all the rope teams that are already on the way back. At a snail's pace is down, the mountain guides are mostly annoyed and relatively short tailed. We relax and wait for the rope chaos until the thick fixed rope is free again. As in the school gymnasium, you can pull up the IV-site, which is more challenging for free climbing. Now you can also directly see the impressive north face, where ice and snow practically all summer holds over. Above the fixed ropes then still 100 Hm have to be climbed over the steep summit field, slipping is absolutely not allowed here.
So we reach the clock at 11 o'clock infinitely happy Summit of the Matterhorn (4478m), and in addition, even alone up here! No cloud touches the mountain, the view extends in all imaginable directions. We are overwhelmed and look forward to Schnitzel like this spontaneous action. This is amazingly good for me, despite the lack of acclimatization. The buddy scrambles quickly over to the Italian summit (4476m), and after a short refreshment, we are back on the way back. Zermatt, or the train, is waiting!
Many reports say that almost the same time is needed for the way back over the ridge. We've never experienced that, but in fact we even have downhill longer second hand. Where you are faster, these are the fixed ropes, where you slide down like in the gym. The rest, however, is practically climbed, which is unusual and therefore takes longer. You have to pull yourself together, concentrate well all the time. The tension and joy dissolves only after the last steep step directly at the Hörnlihütte. At 5 pm we stand on the terrace and look back on this incredibly beautiful mountain, which rises steeply into the sky. Now the first clouds form on the summit and we make our way back to the bivouac. To rest, we treat ourselves to a short break on / in the Schwarzsee. Now I am happy about the sports shoes, which I exchange for the mountain boots and with airy feet take the rest under the legs. We walk back the same way and hurry, so we at 21 o'clock in Zermatt arrive. Wide grinning goes the busy street down to the station.
We made it, and at the same time the mountain made us.