Forty-two - the answer to the question for the life, the universe and all the rest. Zweiundvierzig, nun schon das zweite Jahr in Folge 😉
If my mother didn't corrected me, I would now be 43. But that's another story, a story full of fallacies. You've probably already noticed that it's about my birthday. So not for my birthday directly, but for one of the most beautiful gifts I have ever experienced: a bivouac night with the most magnificent sunset of - mine - history. But let's start from the beginning:
Rainer, my old buddy and rope companion, visited me in Murnau, my new home. A new home, nestled so lovely between mountains, lakes and bogs, my heart rises every day. A home that offers so many possibilities. On Wednesday and Thursday the weather god said good with us and brought two dry days, even with temperatures up to 20 degrees. And a lot of wind. But more on that later.
After some consideration of our important attributes: long, beautiful, promising, conditionally suitable, suitable for late-risers, lightweight and much more, the decision was made in favor of the Kramerspitz rising above the town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen.
We slept late an arrived at 12 noon in the parking lot at the Garmischer Alm hut or Windbeutelalm, shouldered the not quite ultralight backpacks and marched in pleasant sunshine on the Kramerplateauweg to the east, and soon up the slope to the north.
Autumn is my favorite hiking time: warm light, colorful foliage, pleasant temperatures and relatively little activity on the trails. So we trudged through the foliage, climbed higher and higher, always on a well-developed forest road and skate around the St. Martins hut. It pulls us to higher grounds. A look from the rock carcass to Garmisch-Partenkirchen already shows us that the tour could possibly be beautiful. The forest and the foliage become sparse, the trail narrower, and from time to time we have to look for the next step.
Soon we reach the fountain on the branch to the Königstand. Here we rest for a while, enjoying the view and filling all the containers with water for dinner and the night. It is not much, per person about three liters.
From here on, the path noticeably steepens, the surroundings become more alpine, we begin to sweat. On the saddle between Katzenkopf and Mittergern we briefly consider whether we should pitch our bivouac here. The place is seductive. Ample space and a small wild fire ring testifies that people bivouac here more often. But it is still too early, we still have two hours before sunset.
Meanwhile it is 15 o'clock, again and again storm gusts sweep over the pines and mountains. We decide to go on for another 45 minutes and look for a bivouac near the Kramerspitz. If we do not find anything, we still can come back to this place. Of course it was already clear that we would have a hard time going back to the saddle. Of course at the end of the 45 minutes the Kramer summit was close enough to touch, and of course we did not turn back, but trusted to find a place somewhere.
But first we enjoyed the most beautiful part of the trail: the much too short ridge between Mittergern and Kramerspitz. From here we discover a not very steep mountain meadow with some dents, which could provide protection from the strong gusts. As a well-rehearsed team, not many words are needed: down there is our bed and breakfast.
At the summit we settle down on the rustic bench, enjoy the last warm rays of sunshine, prepare a mandatory summit coffee and sit there for a long time.
It gets very cold and we keep going and crossing the slope to our bivouac place. The bivy bag is rolled out quickly, the sun goes down slowly, and the dinner tastes good. What follows now goes down in the annals of my personal mountain history: a sunset that is second to none.
The moon was as bright as daylight, the gusts of wind kept shaking me and rustled the bivy sacks. Cradled with long underwear, down sleeping bag, bivy bag and my warm winter mattress, it was not cold at night, but noisy. I fell asleep late, and woke up late. Rainer was already up for an hour and brought great pictures from the sunrise.
We quickly fled into the sun to have breakfast with the chamois. Over the Stepbergalm, where there was a cheese and bacon plate for the second breakfast, more coffee and more wind, we descended via the route "Gelbes Gewänd".
- Hiking guide Karwendel and Wetterstein: time for hiking
- Zugspitze with Ammergau Alps and Werdenfelser Land (Rother Bergverlag)