The alarm goes on Saturday, 22.01.14, at 5:30 in the morning in Lausanne'We have some breakfast, then the whole junk is packed in the car and off we go. There are four of us, and three-quarters of them fall asleep in the car. Arrival at about 8 o'clock on the Simplonpass before the Simplon Hospice, a block from home. My buddy remembers the house in "Shining" by Kubrick, I do not even know the name of the movie. Fortunately, infrastructure is always only the starting point for mountain tours, so we leave the buildings behind us quickly and climb through hilly terrain in the direction of the north spur from the Hübschhorn.
The weather is sunny, a few clouds are flying over the peaks and you do not notice the wind down here. On approx. 2350m traverses the track the steepest point in the hand, today in the best conditions no problem. From now on we are in the shade, we also see a few people further ahead in the track. Never too far away under the impressive wall of the Hübschhorn, it zigzags in direction Homutta Pass (2867m), where the first meet you again. Today, everyone is reversing on the Breithorn Pass or the Breithorn, it's just too windy in altitude.
Finally, in the sun, we slowly but steadily pull up towards Breithornpass, meet another solo singer, which is now reversed only on the pass, and now can enjoy the mad powder snow. The avalanche situation is excellent for these days, a solid base and loose snow on top. The snowdrift accumulations are on this normal route all small, the small guardians on Breithornpass maximum hard.
At the top Breithornpass (3345m), the wind hits us in the face, and we can finally see our destination, the Monte Leone through the passing clouds. He stands diagonally up at the end of the Alpjergletschers, the south ridge (normal route) has one in the best view. In this wind, a summit climb on the ridge is not recommended, unless you have a parachute. But according to the weather forecast tomorrow there will be a Kaiserwetter, so we are looking for a place for our camp. We head east to meet the rocks, which are now almost completely covered in snow in winter. Here and there we have a look around, and finally we find a small hollow underneath some big stones, which keeps the wind at its best. That's about up 3240m, on the Swiss topo just at the rock ledge at this height. Now it's 2pm, so it took us 5.5 hours to get here.
We dig a hole for the tent, a windscreen for the side facing the glacier and a kitchen-like shelf for the stove. I feel not so good, put me first on the mattress in the Biwaksack and sleep like the rest of the day. At some point we set up the tent and I got inside. At height and in winter you really have to be careful to drink enough. Two of the others go down the hill again, then soup is cooked. We are thinking about getting off if it gets worse. But then it is night, the wind is freshening up, we are now in the tent with three of us and have other worries. It bangs and roars, one sleeps in the hourly rhythm every now and then a few minutes. I use the time and drink in between. Only when the tent wall brightens, the wind decreases and stops at 8 o'clock completely. The buddy from the outside is already longer on the legs, it was at least a little colder than in the tent. We have breakfast, enjoy the sun and leisurely pack our things for the summit climb. I'm fine again, but I still take care not to strain myself.
We make our way over the Alpjer glacier and quickly reach the south ridge P.3373, We leave the skis on the edge of the glacier, climb the ridge in the treadle snow and are happy about the fantastic winter weather today. Not a single cloud over the mountains, Italy under haze and views to the Apennines. If you climb up on one side of the ridge in ten minutes, you would need a lot longer on the other side, because it goes down more than 1000 meters almost vertically.
Now take out the pimples (without crampons) and off you go, a few tracks are still visible. In the beginning, a few rocks are bypassed or overstrained, until the long snow crest can simply be climbed up, to be accessed a few times just before the summit. At 11:30 o'clock we are on Summit cross (3553m), on all sides the Swiss mountains, perfect view, no one else is on the way here. If you want to give someone the Swiss mountains summit after peak, this mountain is definitely made for it. We also see a lot of people climbing the Breithorn. And our tent on the glacier. It only slightly winds up here. After about 15 minutes we start our way back. At one point we take the rope for safety, we finally have time and carried it up, making us feel safer on the snow crest. Shortly before P.3373 Then we meet two women who came down from the Breithorn Pass.
The skis on again, it goes back to the tent, we make another warm soup, a coffee, and pack our things together very relaxed. The sun is blazing, we cream ourselves again with 50s sunscreen. My beautiful chocolate bag is misused as a garbage bag, a pity.
We shoulder the heavy rucksacks, run to the Breithornpass and get rid of all the unnecessary things again, in 20 minutes on the Breithorn (3437m) to run. Here again the panorama, the Fletschhornwand and the Monte Leone, admire and shut down as almost last on this day. Packed on the passport again and then with a sensed 100 kg on the back the Homutta glacier. Super nice powder snow, the old tracks evenly blown, we pull down the valley. With so much luggage you need breaks every now and then. We drive off the ascent again, until shortly before the hospice the snow is loose and soft and even the sun is still there when we arrive at the car around 4pm.
Of course you can do the tour in one day, but we had the whole weekend, and the weather was not so good on Saturday. Had we already made it to the summit, we would probably have gone off and on Sunday on the other side of the valley run up (Spitzhorn, etc ...).