Alpine crossing on foot: ten thousand meters in altitude and one hundred kilometers - the section of the European Long Distance Hiking "E5" from Oberstdorf to Merano is one of the classic Alpine crossings. A true dream path meanders through a variety of mountain landscapes, from green alpine meadows to the stony and icy high mountains through daily new and impressive landscapes.
1: Oberstdorf - Kemptner Hütte (21st July)
We arrived at lunchtime at drizzle in Oberstdorf and let us take some small errands and a coffee by taxi along the Trettachtals to Spielmannsau bring. After a short t-shirt weather phase, it started to rain, more and more. At the top left of the gravel slope, shortly after the "knee", we spent some time in a cave to wait for the weather to improve. The further ascent was wet and cold. Quite suddenly, the Kemptner Hütte (1844m) appeared, (too many) minutes later we were sitting in the warm, dry Gastraum at Leberkäs and were already thinking about 19:00 clock, if we can already in the dormitory ... the unfamiliar effort took their toll.
2: Kemptner Hut - Memminger Hut (July 22)
At 7:30 am, after a quick coffee, we went to the Mädelejoch (1974m), and thus to Austria, Tyrol. Again rain accompanied us in all variations. On the descent into the Lechtal coffee break in the Roßgumpenalm (1329m) and escape from mass occurrence wet Dutchman. We pass the impressive Simms Waterfall and arrive in Holzgau around 12:00, just in time for schnitzel and more coffee. At 14:30 we were again by taxi to Madau to the material cable car of the Memminger hut, which saved us a several hours march on tar and gravel roads. During the rather muddy and slippery ascent from the cable car to the Memminger hut (2242m) we were attacked by ibex in the steep step, fist-sized stones came down barely 2m beside me. Bastards! Four perplexed eyes stared. The last 200m pulled tough, behind every steep step, behind every turn, we waited for the hut. It smelt of snow and it was getting cold. After a total of 3 hours we reach the hut rather exhausted. Wonderfully she lies in a huge cauldron!
3: Memminger Hut - Zams (July 23)
Oberlochalm, 1800m, lunch with spaghetti and coffee, chocolate. Half of the descent into the Inn valley is done! From the Memminger Hütte this morning we went up to the Seescharte at 2600m, then descend to Zams at 775m. 2000 Hm "legendary descent" is in the Rother Hiking Guide Long Distance Hiking E5, From the Seescharte with light snow down to Lochbachtal the way was still exciting, further down in the "Zammer hole", however, over the blasted trail, it is very tough, both physically and mentally, because you have the goal, Landeck and Zams im Inntal, constantly in mind - only you can hardly get closer. Meter after meter you trot down. At a resting place high above Zams, we briefly considered whether we should bivouac here, but rejected the idea because of lack of water. A barely ending three quarters of an hour later, finally in Zams, we are already expected (salute to Iris and Martina!) And quarter us in the pension Frank. Clean rooms, shower, nice chat. In the evening it drives us again on the street, we go eat, walk through the village, cover us with sweets at the local gas station.
4: Zams - Gletscherstube (Brunswick hut) (24th of July)
The 2000Hm descent from the day before sat in the bones, in the legs, in the feet. The plan was therefore: economical hiking, households with the forces. We drove at 9:00 clock with the Venet Railway on the Krahberg (2208m), where we expected snow, fog and cold. But somehow we managed to "read" ourselves, because from the imaginary 3 hour hike on the panorama way we had another whole day. Mostly just below the snow line and with rather little panorama we went over the panorama path through great landscapes reminiscent of Scotland and smacking high moor to the Galflunalm (1960m). The bacon snack was delicious! Partly on a wide, boring road, partly on the old alpine path, it went down again for hours, 1000Hm to Wenns (982m). Well what are already 1000Hm descent ... Down in Wenns arrived we got even a few warm and comforting sunbeams. We use the bus through the Pitztal, until the very end to Mittelberg. From there in 30min to Gletscherstube (1891m), where we in a cozy round of six with tea the evening with stories from E5 and climbing adventures (greeting to Nina and Daniel!) Sweetened.
5: Gletscherstube - Brunswick hut (25th of July)
Get up at 6:00, everyone else was still asleep. Relaxed and enjoy the coffee alone. At 7:45 am everyone was awake, we prepared for the ascent to the Brunswick hut (2758m). This time we use the material ropeway and went carefree from the backpacks - the wrong way. On a driveway to a construction site, we repeatedly avoided heavy trucks until after about 1 hour we finally hit the actual hiking trail - and thus Nina and Daniel, who came up here via one of the newly created via ferratas, as well as Iris and Martina, who had found the branch of the path over the falls. There was a bit of snow up here, and we walked on accordingly thoughtfully. Suddenly the view opened onto the Mittelbergferner and its glacier gate. As extra created for offered by the sun warmed stone slabs as promising box seats. The last vertical meters to the hut were then taken quickly, against 14:00 clock it moved to, visibility less than 10m, snowfall. After a short consultation with the host, we decided for a rest day at the hut - and not only because of the weather ... But unfortunately: the Brunswick hut is unpleasantly large and, unfortunately, quite unfriendly-professional. In the afternoon the staff changed: Lederhosen for the guided tours. We were more or less left private.
6: Braunschweiger Hut - Martin Busch Hut (26th July)
6 clock, weather: cool! Sun! Snow! The weather worries of the previous eve blown away. Departure at 7:30, between two groups, the path is groomed but not yet iced. Perfect timing! The ascent to the Pitztaler Jöchl is closed, we took the alternative route over the Rettenbachjöchl (2993m). Above, out of the shadow of the wall, bright sunshine, blue sky. The heart is laughing! Sit, soak up the sun, rest. With a little imagination you can think away the ugly constriction (ski area!). The descent took place in Fallinie, Ropi, a mountain guide, made it happen. Nothing like behind! What fun! At the restaurant Rettenbachferner gabs to strengthen coffee, cereal and dried fruit, a bus took us in 10 minutes through the Rosi Mittermaier tunnel on the other side to Tiefenbachferner. From there we went in the most beautiful weather on the panoramic path (this time really with a magnificent panorama!) In 4 hours over the Weiskarsee (2658m) to Vent (1896m).
In Vent, an ugly, elite village, which only seems to consist of (pseudo) noble hotels, we bought some sausage and cola, sat on a bench for about 30 minutes, and then, annoyed and determined, continued on to the Martin-Busch-Hütte (2501m ) approach. The worst fears came true: on a widely visible, wide driveway, consistently slightly rising, we walked more than 2 hours to the hut. This hut climb is worthy of the first place for the beschXXX climb of the whole tour! But the hut itself is cozy and the dinner with roast pork is delicious - and we are quickly reconciled 🙂
7: Martin Busch Hut - Vernagt / Meran (27th July)
6:15 a.m., 3 ° C, 2500m, Martin-Busch-Hütte. A night with ten mountaineers in the camp: priceless 🙂 Rather comfortable to get off late, steadily rising on the side moraine of the Niederjochferner, increasingly steep towards the end. We decided to take the approx. Three-hour detour via the Ötzi site on the Hauslabjoch due to the oncoming weather and climbed directly over the pathetic remains of the glacier to the Similaunhütte at 3017m. Short lunch with Merano house sausage, coffee and apple strudel and the good weather phase used to descend to Vernagt. Again the well-known game: the first half of the 1300Hm interesting, then lengthy, tough. When we arrived in Vernagen we let the first bus whiz to drink another delicious Italian cappuccino - and arrive! We are in Italy, we actually hiked from Germany to Italy! The attempt to get us back to Oberstdorf by bus from a guided hiking group failed due to the rather incomprehensible regulations of a certain and well-known mountain school, and poor Ropi had to deliver this message.
Such are the ugly sides of the job, he is always the bearer of bad news. I can understand him well. At 17:22 a bus took us and then the train to Merano. A bit haphazard, we stumbled from one hostel to the next, but all the cheap options seemed booked. Annoyed we set ourselves on an 'emergency bivouac' in the city park.
8: Meran - Constance (July 28)
In the evening we exchanged the city park for the hotel Lux (the name definitely comes from neither "light" nor "luxury"), showered so extensively that the water had drained only the next morning.
Until 9:15 clock we drank the time at breakfast and cappuccino in Caffé Time, took the train to Brenner, went there to Innsbruck, had the dubious pleasure with shirts and schlipstragenden boarders (at least they tried quite convulsively, all prejudices about beer-drinking Teenies from 'better home' confirm) in the same compartment to travel. Another change brought us to Lindau, from here we went to Friedrichshafen, there, after another - now not quite so Italian cappuccino - to climb the catamaran to Konstanz. Another stop at the WG-Destill bivouac to join a cyclist for the toughest climb of the whole tour: the fourth floor up to our basecamp.
Literature: Long Distance Hiking E5 (Rother)