Climbing is now regarded as the trend hobby par excellence. Whether indoor or outdoor, rock climbing is a dangerous extreme sport that should not be practiced without adequate training and safety equipment.
Whoever climbs for the first time and has to handle the rope at an unfamiliar height usually gets sweaty due to nervousness. But practice is the master and you can rely on the usual backup methods, if you master them properly. Furthermore, the quality of the climbing equipment, such as the Grigri 2 or the so-called alpine tubers, increasingly improves. Nevertheless, enough exercise is essential in order to recognize and be able to counteract dangers of climbing in halls and on the rock. This is the only way to avoid dangers and increase your own and your partner's own safety.
Common backup errors
Wrong hand position with Tubern and semi-automatic Click-Up / Smart can not brake the rope. The brake hand must be down at all times and tightly fasten the rope - a loose guiding of the rope is not sufficient! When the cable is being dispensed, the brake hand may be moved forward at maximum, never upwards.
Clean grip is when Topropen or Nachsteiger secure (ie catch up with the rope) safer than the tunneling of the rope. When backing up a leader (ie spending the rope), tunneling is faster and safer again, as it shortens the reaction time and allows you to adjust the rope length very quickly. Here is a good guide as much practice the master.
Above all, people who work primarily with the Halbmastwurfsicherung have to remember it again and again. Because with them the reflex is often trained that the brake hand does not go down. For this reason, the OEAV, for example, has long been recommending keeping the brake hand down while backing up with HMS.
Semi-mast protection is still a standard method as it is simple, reliable and a basic skill in alpine touring. But she also offers some pitfalls. For example, the rope must never run over the snapper. Otherwise, the lock carabiner can turn up, whereby the load on the weakened carabiner comes. Better to use a carabiner with protection against twisting, or eg a ball-lock or similar system, which protects against unintentional untwisting. Another fatal and often observed mistake in securing with HMS is that the rope is grasped with only two fingers (tweezer posture). If the leader falls at this moment, he can not be stopped!
My personal favorites
- HMS: the absolute standard, always works and is uncomplicated. Disadvantage: Rope dispensing is quickly exhausting and the rope is extremely loaded and krangelt fast.
- Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso: multifunctional tubers, also for half / twin ropes, can be used in the lead and ascent. Pay attention to rope diameter!
- ClickUp for training in the hall. Semiautomatic machines forgive the slightest carelessness. Pay attention to rope diameter!
You can not check your equipment and backup equipment enough before you start your climb. It is equally important that you can rely on your partner and check each other, if everything is right and appropriate:
- Is the belt closed properly?
- What about tackle point and point as well as carabiner and belay device?
- Is the rope end knotted?
- Free lane?
Of course, falls and accidents can always happen. But whoever has a lot of experience, looks after a good backup, thinks and can rely on his partner, at least reduces the risk of accidents. Climbing beginners should be advised regarding clothing and equipment necessarily in a shop and prove a beginner course!
Finally, a video tip: the DAV has created the usual security devices videos that show their handling and possible operating errors. Here you can click through.
The text reflects my personal opinion and current experience as a climber again, hence the note: Climbing is a risky sport and not dangerous - so educate yourself well! Beginners courses are regularly offered in a climbing hall or at the alpine clubs. There you not only learn the safety-related basics, but also learn the movement techniques from the bottom up correctly.
No text on a blog and no video can replace a good education! You can find the latest opinion on the topic at the Alpine Associations.